August 29

I slept really well last night on the fresh soft grass at Green Springs. I found the Swiss couple from the night before right away and they offered to let me use the shower in their room before we left for town. I gladly accepted and had a nice conversation with them on our way into Ashland. Once in town, I found breakfast, coffee and wifi in one place and waited around until the Taj Indian Cuisine opened for their lunch buffet at 11:00. There I met up with Jason who has been resting his foot for a few days, and ate an unbelievable amount of food. After an hour and a half we went looking for wifi and found an ice cream and coffee shop for dessert. We didn't even notice there was no wifi until after buying ice cream and coffee, but stayed for two hours anyway. Then we caught the bus to Jason's hotel room for the night, and even though there was an extra queen bed I still hitched out to the trail and hiked 5 miles in. I'm 60 miles from Seiad Valley and should be able to get there by Saturday night. Two 30s are easier than two 32s. The extra 2 miles is a lot at the end of the day. I might try to do a 32 tomorrow so all I have is a 28 on Saturday. 

August 27

I hiked the 10 miles to the road in record time with the thought of breakfast at Fish Lake Resort only 2 miles down the highway. I road hiked with my thumb out, not wanting to walk all two miles if I didn't have to but no one stopped. I ended up wandering a bit looking for the resort as it is not well marked, but did find it after 30 minutes. I ordered a coffee first of all being that I am out of Starbucks VIA instant and still have the addiction. Then for breakfast, a chicken fried steak, two eggs and hashbrowns all smothered in sausage gravy. Three different kinds of jelly came with my toast and I gave them all a try. I usually don't go for cream in my coffee, but they had honey packets and the extra calories sounded nice especially after weighing myself this weekend and finding that I've lost 15 pounds even with all the added muscle. So each of my four cups of coffee had two creamers and one packet of honey. I then finished up with a chocolate malt milkshake and paid my tab with a generous tip. 

I left the resort just before 1:00 pm, but had a difficult time making good time because of the meal. At 2:00 I took a break to dry out my tent, and eat my last apple with some Nutella and also to let my town stop digest a bit. This done, I hiked in the heat of the afternoon until 5:00 pm. By this time I reached the Brown Mountain Shelter, a cabin in the woods I heard about from the nobos. I planned to fill up with water and be gone since it would only be a 20 mile day, but found many excuses as to why staying would be a good idea. So here I am at the shelter camped with the mice and ants who inhabit the place. It's a really neat place if you overlook your company. I have it all to myself other than that though, no hikers have shown up. In 27 miles I will be able to order the best burger on the trail and 13 miles after that I get a lunch buffet. I'm trying to gain some of my lost weight back and look healthy again!

August 26

I finished today feeling good at 32 miles for the day. A few restful days and a couple nearos is good for the hiker body I guess. The trail was nice and flat once again which helped for making mileage. I did have one climb just before lunch that brought me up to just over 7,000 ft. from about 6,000 ft. This climb, however, was accomplished in classic Oregon style with long slow gradual uphill pulls and only about 3 switchbacks. When I reached the top of the pass I could see the summit of the mountain less than 500 ft. above me. I don't like missing great views so I climbed the spur trail with my pack to have lunch on top. The results were fantastic 360 degree views of the whole countryside including the rim of Crater Lake to my north and Mt. Shasta to my south. 

After lunch I made my way south once again. I met 14-ish nobos (not sure if some were thru-hikers), and got some great information about the path ahead. We mostly talk about town stops and the availability of good, cheap food when we thru-hikers meet on the trail. It does sound like I'm nearing the tail end of "the pack" of nobo hikers meaning I should start seeing less and less every day. Louis texted me and is currently 62 miles ahead of me and taking a town day tonight and probably part of tomorrow. I'm interested to see how my body responds to the mileage and to see if I can do the miles again tomorrow. 

August 25

I have enjoyed my Sunday nearo day immensely and am so grateful for the home that was opened up to me for Saturday night. We said with a long ago friend of my mom's from her newlywed days on the west coast. I had a huge lunch and was persuaded to have a second slice of pie for dessert. After a quick stop at a grocery store my mom drive me out to the trailhead from Klamath Falls. It must be from spending the week hiking with mom or the two nearo days that made me feel so at home because on the way to the trailhead I got the jittery feeling in my stomach, yet I was headed to what I consider my "home". Whatever it was I am glad now to be back on trail.

With the town power I was able to make 10 miles in less than 3 hours even though I've been in rain for the last hour and a half. I was listening to the epilogue of "Crime and Punishment" when over my noise canceling earbuds a thunderclap sounded that sent chills down my spine. I wasn't paying any attention to the sky and was absorbed in the book. Looking up, I saw that I was on a ridge top with a nasty storm rolling in overhead. I scrambled to pull out my rain gear and the sky opened up. There was enough hail to make the ground white and lightning dancing around within minutes as I ran ahead to where the trail dipped down 600 ft. and off the ridge. I have camped early at 7:30 10 miles in and am glad I had a sandwich packed for me so I don't have to cook. The rain is just drizzling lightly and I'm ready to fall asleep to the raindrop lullaby tonight. 

August 28

I am at a loss for words to describe how great my stop at Green Springs Inn is going so far. Oregon has been fun with all of the little resorts along the way, and each one has something different to offer. Each one, until this point, has been forgettable. That might be too strong of a word but the point is, all of them have sort of blurred together in my mind. I wonder what meal I had where and what went on at different ones. Green Springs, however, has changed that. I was greeted by the friendliest staff, had the best meal piled high with food, and paid very little and tipped really well. I hiked 27 miles to get here and was really hungry which helps make any food better, but I do think I just had the best burger I've ever had. The willingness of the staff to help me find everything I need is really what has me at a loss for words. It is one of those moments when your faith in humanity is completely restored. 

I have a ride into Ashland tomorrow too thanks to a couple from Switzerland that were sitting next to me and heard me asking about finding a ride. This will help take some stress off as I am trying to get to Seiad Valley on Saturday night for a Sunday nearo. I had a really great day on trail today with only one small hitch. I still have the shin splints feeling in my left leg after consecutive big mileage days. I think if I'm more diligent in stretching this problem will go away. 

August 24

I hiked across Crater Lake rim starting at about 4:50 am to get some good long shutter pictures and early sunrise shots. The results were so great and worth every minute I spent hiking the out and back of about 5 miles. It's a beautiful lake and mostly accessible by vehicle which could be the reason for all the strange looks from people as we have been walking around with our packs on. We had a huge breakfast at the lodge and spent the morning on the deck over Crater Lake enjoying the sun and the views. Around noon we headed down the trail 4 miles to Mazama Village to catch our ride out of the park and into town. We met our friends there and ended up going back up to the rim with them to show another the lake who had just arrived from southern California on a road trip. We had a great time this evening with more great friends and even though I look forward to being on the trail again, I have enjoyed my stop. 

August 23

We finished out the 9 or so miles to the village lodge on the rim of Crater Lake at a leisurely pace. The pace was slow because our cameras were getting workout pointed across the lake taking pictures every half mile. We met a few more nobos as they headed out, and got some information about some of the stops ahead. I've looked at a few more potential resupply points and want to ask a nobo about the stops if I get a chance. We climbed up to The Watchman, a fire watch tower, for lunch and had great views and a cool breeze. It was warmer up on the watch tower than down on the rim where a stiff cool wind had its effect and made the temperature feel almost cold. 

My stay tonight consists of a rollaway bed and a feather pillow. Not bad accommodations for a hiker. So far we've had a steak dinner and a shower to get the first layer of grit off. I'll go for a bath for the second layer and call it a night. 

August 22

We camped early tonight because of threatening clouds and because we are far enough ahead of schedule that we have nowhere to be and all day to get there. It's a nice feeling to have that buffer in our time frame. It did rain a little on us just after reaching the 9 mile water cache. We met a few more nobos today we even got trail magic in the form of grapes from one, and word from another is that we might be close to the end of the pack. I'm sure for for the next few weeks I will still see some coming through, however. I was able to make phone calls and we have a room at the Rim Village for tomorrow night and a ride to Klamath Falls Saturday afternoon. I think we'll be able to check in to our room by 4 pm tomorrow even with stopping and taking pictures on the rim for a while. I was trying to get close enough tonight to hike up before sunrise tomorrow, but had to shut down with the rain moving in. If I was by myself I would probably pack up now and get closer before dark because the rain had already let up and I can hear thunder way off past our location. 

August 21

Mom is a trooper! She and I did 16 miles today and are set up to cruise at an easy pace to Crater Lake. We talked tonight about keeping this pace up and getting a room or a cabin at the village on the lake. These are the benefits of having someone hiking with you that is still maintaining a positive cash flow. I was going to suggest, while we were planning this hike, that since I was slowing down for her she could make it worth it with a hotel room at the end. A little inception 3 days in worked just as well I guess. That takes a little off my mind too since looking at my food situation. I have enough to make it, but would be hungry Saturday night. I'm hungry all the time anyway so it would be quite normal. The hiker appetite is apparent every time I come into town now more so than before. I realize it's going to grow more and more as the trail goes on and look forward to cookies and such from friends and relatives who have volunteered their baking for my cause. We have a 27 mile waterless stretch ahead of us for the next couple days, but it sounds like the water cache at the highway in 9 miles is reliable thanks to intel from two nobos camped nearby. 

August 20

Mom and I hiked 15.2 miles today to get to Six Horse Spring, our campsite for the night. We are camped in the Mt.Thielsen Wilderness and for the first time in the section she is hiking with me, we are not at a campground. I have looked on completely void of jealousy as she popped two blisters on her feet, both in spots that I had to do the same a few weeks back. Other than my mistake on water sources, we've had an uneventful day. We took the Oregon Skyline Trail as an alternate because of the abundant water sources, and found that to be exactly the case. There was a 3 mile stretch at the end where the OST turned to rejoin the PCT and left the lakes in lower elevation. At the road, my book told me there was water 0.5 miles east at a stream that crossed the road. In an effort to be as light as possible for blistered feet I've been a bit of a water-nazi making sure we have just enough to get to the next source as to not carry any excess weight. As it turned out the book failed and there was no water at the road. The stream was bone dry. Our options were a creek two miles north on the PCT (the last resort I was considering in case the road stream was dry), or the spring in 6.3 miles. We had 3/4 of a liter between us and decided to hike on for the spring in the increasing afternoon heat. I have been much more dehydrated than this stretch, but thankfully it doesn't happen very often. Between quenching our thirst and dinner for both of us, we have gone through 4 liters of water. It's good to have water again, but we have a 16.3 mile waterless section tomorrow. This time we will be carrying enough to make it all day. 

August 18

I am so full from the convention and all the abundant food from my days off I feel healed from head to foot. I am so excited to be back "home" in the wilderness. I'm not actually in the wilderness tonight, however. On my way to the trailhead I called Louis. He happened to be at Shelter Cove in the middle of a resupply opportunity, and was going to camp at a nearby free campground. Since our trailhead was right next to the campground and our other option was to hike in to a campsite closer to the railroad tracks, mom and I decided to join Louis at the campground. It's been great to catch up with him and hear all the adventures he's had coming this way. We will hike out separately tomorrow as he is planning to take the PCT and mom and I plan to take the alternate for the sake of more abundant water. Louis has decided to change his name from "Poptart" to "Sugar Side Down" upon word from nobos that there is another "Poptart" on the trail. Once again, I am so glad to be home, but I can tell it is not home yet for mom.

August 19

This was a great section to have someone with. We hiked from one campground to another campground with fresh water and pit toilets. Mom and I hiked 11.9 miles to Crescent Lake campground where we are living in luxury and sleeping on a bed of comfortable sand. Two campers came by and said to stop by if we needed anything. I plan to walk by their campsite in the morning after breakfast to see if they have anything extra for two hungry hikers. Our hike today was mostly through the forest and lacked the exciting views, but had plenty of water. It did get really warm in the afternoon and almost too hot but since I'm not trying to make huge mileage I wasn't affected by the heat. It's a really easy pace and a nice transition back into hiking for me. I might have a shin splint problem in my leg that showed up a week and a half ago when hiking out of Big Lake area. I thought a few zeros would take care of it, and should have if it is indeed shin splints. This easy hiking will be good for me this week, as well as nearos on Saturday and Sunday.

August 17

I have enjoyed this time off the trail, but I am getting urges to hike. I wore my hiking shoes outside this evening and they are itching to get back out and hike. We looked at the "reliable" water sources for the diamond peak route to Crater Lake, and they are scarce at best. It looks like we will be camping twice waterless and carrying up to 8 liters between us for a couple stretches. This is definitely going to slow our progress and may be the cause of a blister or two. 

The story for this post is the last of my zero day stories as tomorrow night I will be on trail once again. This one is the story of "The Berries". 

Ever since making my way to the Canadian border I had been keeping my eyes on the berry bushes. I recognized raspberry bushes as they grabbed my clothes while hiking by and felt a little twinge of jealousy toward the nobos that would be coming through when there were ripe berries ready for picking on the bushes. I had no idea what a huckleberry bush looked like, but was familiar with the taste and color and figured I could squeeze the juice out and recognize huckleberry by the color and flavor. I had also read that salmon berries grew along the trail but also had no clue as to what they looked like. Be aware, dear reader, of the craving for fresh fruit and vegetables a hiker deals with on the trail. There is no super market with exotic fruits and no farmers market for fresh vegetables. The vitamins we lack are contained in such items and the cravings come for cucumber, pineapple, apples etc. I was hiking with Louis at the time, and we were on the Goldmyer Hot Springs alternate to the PCT just north of Snoqualamie Pass when we encountered our first ripe berries. There was a big bush of what looked like orange raspberries and the temptation was too much. Even though we couldn't identify them we had to try them. A no doubt dangerous venture but the risk was probably no worse than puking if it turned out to be poison. We later found out that orange raspberries were actually unripened salmon berries and were introduced to raw huckleberries by the friendly folks at Goldmyer Hot Springs. Louis still eats unripe salmon berries, but I found that once they turn from their salmon color to bright red they taste amazing and have become a salmon berry snob. We both devour huckleberries any chance we get, and I have a saying: "The day I'm too worried about my mileage or too concerned with hiking matters to stop and eat huckleberries is the day I quit the trail."

August 16

I'm still loving the new sleeping bag. I've been able to sleep like a baby with a full stomach and no miles to hike... In the words of my good friend Louis "Poptart" "I could zero forever!". My mom showed up today and I have to say that I am impressed with her pack weight. She kept it really low which means we'll be able to put miles in blister free and with happy feet.

My story for this post since there is no hiking to write about is going to be my experience with night hiking. I've had two recent opportunities to hike at night and both describe a little about the experience, but I want to explain in greater detail what it is like for those who maybe have never had a chance to try it. 

The first thing I noticed as I stepped out of my tent at 3:45 am was how vivid the Milky Way was especially now that the moon had set. There was no light in the sky natural or unnatural. Portland, OR had a faint glow to my east by northeast, but it was so far and faded that it did not take away from the brilliance in the night sky. I'll never forget looking at the heavens that night. After packing everything up, I was hiking at 4:05 am. With my headlamp illuminating the path in front of me I hiked to the top of a ridge that I would follow for most of the day. Atop the ridge, the sky opened up as trees faded behind and the pitch black remained. I kept looking up, distracted by the magic in the sky and every time I did so my light went skyward. This caused me to stumble quite often, to the point where I had to make a conscious effort to pay attention to the trail and not the sky. I took quite a few breaks, and was just a little sad to miss the view from the south side of Mt. Jefferson because I knew how amazing they were on the north side. It was really neat to be on the ridge top just as the morning light started to break in the east and see the light from the forest fires burning in two different directions. As night gave way into day the morning chill came rushing over the ridge. I believe this phenomenon is due to the vapor layer being burned off by the sun. Someone can google that for a fact check if they want. It always seems to get really chilly before dawn and that is the explanation I have been told. I still am impressed with the photos taken with long shutter exposure and hope I get a few more chances to try it out. I plan to be on the Crater Lake rim for the sunrise so my next chance might be a week from tomorrow. If you ever have the chance to be at elevation for sunrise it is beyond worth the effort of waking up and something I highly recommend. I wasn't on top of the world or even as high as the peaks around me, just at about 6,000 ft. looking directly east. 

August 15

My new sleeping bag is amazing. The first night in a new bag is always great because it is all clean and doesn't smell like trail yet. It's been great to relax a bit, but I am wishing I could hike away soon. There is a freeway not far from where I'm set up and the noise just doesn't belong when I'm in my backpacking tent. 

The story that comes to mind for tonight is one from the Goat Rocks near White Pass, WA. I may have mentioned some of it in a previous post but it is known as "The Afternoon Cloudwash" it happened like this:

After a spectacular view for lunch on the northern side of the "Knife Edge", Louis "Poptart" and I started across the said ridge in two separate waves. There was a bit of a climb ahead and I usually hike faster uphill than he does so the separation was expected. I hiked across some of the most memorable scenery that I have come across not noticing the goats playing in the glaciers below me. When I reached the peak I took a sweeping panorama video of the area and sat down to have a snack and enjoy the scene while I waited for Poptart to catch up. While sitting there on the peak with 360 degree views at an elevation over 7,000 ft., a cloud at about 6,500 came cruising across the valley below me. A split second later the cloud came up over me, and I was completely enclosed in a windy white sheet only able to see a few feet in front of me! It was the most incredible experience to be completely enclosed in the mist knowing I was at the peak of an expansive valley, yet could only see the rocks I was sitting on. Moments later the cloud left and once again the panorama was before me. It's hard to describe what that experience was like in words, but it's unlike anything I've been through before it since. 

August 14

After a hectic day of finding Internet, food and other items of luxury I found a ride to Saginaw, OR where I will be spending time with new friends and being fed. I did get the chance to get to REI and upgrade my sleeping bag, and will have a few nights to make sure it keeps me warm before going back to the trail. 

The best story I can think of for the first of my days off is called "The night of the underwear thief" and it goes something like this:

I had hiked hard and fast all day, feeling strong as it was my first day on the trail. There was no foot pain, I had plenty of food and was feeling all kinds of excited for the adventure ahead. After following what I thought was the Pacific Crest Trail all afternoon, I found a beautiful campsite on top of a ridge that overlooked an expansive valley and connected to a steep ridge on the other side. That steep ridge turned out to be the real PCT later but as far as this story is concerned it's just trifling details. I set up my tent for no reason other than as a rookie on the trail I liked the added "security" of a tarp over my head. I hung my pack with all scented items in a tree and laid various articles of clothing and my boots out to dry. I changed into pajamas inside my tent and laid my pants and underwear next to me, stretched out, to dry. I slept really well being already accustomed to the tent by then, and woke up refreshed and started getting dressed. I was out of my pajama pants when I realized the underwear I had laid out were no where to be seen! I dug out the only other pair, put them on and went to investigate the area. I found my underwear outside of my tent, next to my boots where half of a shoelace had been chewed off! In searching the area I found the half length of shoelace and noticed I had a nice big hole in my new underwear. If a critter wants my stuff I wish next time they just take it instead of halfway destroying it. 

August 13

After the night at Elk Lake Resort, Jason and I had a big breakfast at 9:00 am and met a few nobo hikers as they came in for lunch and breakfast. After putting it off until 10:30, I decide to head for the road to try to get my hitch. I knew it was a long shot to get a ride the whole way being that it was 120 miles. I figured if I could just get the 40 miles to highway 58 I would be in good shape and could find a ride on the busy highway to Eugene. 

I stood on the road for 3 straight hours with my thumb in the air. I watched to lazy nobos who were laying down in the shade catch a ride to Bend, OR the other way in less than an hour. At 1:30 pm I was almost ready to give up on the hitch for a minute and grab some food when a thought occurred to me. Here I was trying to hitch hike wearing my bright orange shirt with a black stripe. This is the color of the Oregon State Beavers. I am trying to get a ride to Eugene, OR the home of the Oregon Ducks. I still had my green shirt clean and in my pack. I switched my shirt, and was now thumbing a ride in Oregon Duck green. 10 minutes later a vehicle stopped and I had a ride 120 miles to Eugene and only 3 miles from my hotel. The driver never said anything about the color of my shirt, but it seemed like a strange coincidence that I couldn't get a ride in Beaver orange but Duck green was the charm. It's probably better for my safety to be wearing Duck green in this town anyway. 

Cushy hotel with wifi and mini fridge, and a full stomach as well. I'm excited for the next few days of zeros to let everything heal up and any wait to get back on trail on the 19th with my mom doing the 84 mile Crater Lake section with me. Stay tuned for updates on that I have feeling it's going to be an adventure. 

August 12

We camped last night near an obsidian deposit and had fun breaking the large chunks into small bits in the morning while attempting to make a sharp blade like our ancestors might have done years ago. This combined with other factors made for a really late start. My pack is really heavy from my resupply drop making mileage difficult, and sore feet and knees are becoming a factor in hindering progress. It was only about 20 miles to Elk Lake Resort and we've made it without much incident. We both had a chance to go for a swim and clean up a bit. Even though the water we were swimming in tasted disgusting, it was still relatively clear and the temperature was such that it wasn't uncomfortable to do so.

Upon arrival at the resort Jason (in talking with some nobo hikers we found out there is another "halfway" so we've revoked the trail name) went in for food and I went directly for a hitch. I stood on the road for an hour and 4 cars went by all with drivers pretending not to see me. I gave up and came in to the resort hungry and tired. Jason was finishing up his meal and told me that they had been closed since 7 pm (it was now 7:45) and he had barely been able to get food. He gave me what was left of his fries, and we went out by the lakeshore to hang out until dusk. The employees let us stay down by the shore cowboy style, and I wouldn't have it any other way as the meteor shower is in full swing. There's no better way to fall asleep than while watching meteors come burning through the atmosphere in a place so remote you can see the Milky Way. 

August 11

Jason and I left the youth camp just after midnight and started our night hiking adventure. By 2:00 am, on my 23rd hour, my body started to show signs of fatigue that were serious enough for me to start looking for a suitable campsite. By 3:00 am I was sound asleep in a decent campsite just over 3 miles from where we left. 

We woke up late, still soaking wet with dew from sleeping on a western facing slope and not getting the early sun to dry us up. We were hiking just after 10 am and made our way out to the lava fields. We have spent most of today stumbling over loose lava rock, and thankfully neither of us have any injuries from doing so. I gave Jason the trail name "halfway" after hearing his philosophy of saying the phrase to himself "I'm halfway there" no matter how far he's travelled that day. It's a very interesting approach to any concept, but especially in this case. 

We did get a little trail magic in the form of a soda cache and had a nice afternoon conversation with two nobos who were getting ready to hitch into Bend, OR. After stumbling over more lava rock we are camped between two creeks in a wide meadow with a view of all 3 sisters to our east. I have some wicked condensation starting in my tent and expect it to be fully soaked by morning. 

August 10

There is no name for what I'm about to do today. It is midnight and now the 11th but I am up, met another sobo hiker and we are headed out for a little night hiking after spending some time at Big Lake Youth Camp. I did get up at 3 am and was hiking by 4 am this morning. The stars are so vivid at night I found it hard to walk in a straight line much less follow the trail. I stumbled my way to a ridge where I took some amazing pictures using the long shutter exposure feature on my camera. I hiked a little farther to another eastern facing ridge where I ate my last avocado an watched the sun rise. I got to the lake I was trying to reach before the storm hit and met a small group of weekend backpackers. Two of which hiked out the 11 or so miles with me and we chatted about the trail. To Mikayla and Ashland, if you found my blog, you should know you have what it takes to do the PCT. You kept up well with full packs and one rest break that's more than most people can do. Good luck on your hike, possibly class of 2016??

I got to Santiam Pass, found the soda cache, and aired out my tent and sleeping bag. Just as I was about to pack up my tent, more storm clouds rolled in and I had to dive in for cover. The rain only lasted for about 3 hours, and as soon as they quit I cut my phone calls short and headed for the youth camp upon word from a nobo hiker that Saturdays are free food days at the camp. I arrived after missing the sign and hiking a mile too far, got a plate of food and met a fellow sobo hiker named Jason. I've done laundry, had a shower and Jason and myself are headed to the trail to hike tonight. We plan on going until about 4 or 5 am then crashing until 10 or 11 am tomorrow. I will have been up for more than 24 hours. Fun. 

August 8

I was camped only 20 miles from Ollalie Lake Resort. It has a small store and enough to resupply if need be, but not a place I would resupply unless I had to. I had a bear trying to get my food last night and on two separate accounts I had to scare it away from the tree I had my food hung in. Bears aren't scary to me anymore, just incredibly annoying. I need my food, 20 miles is too far to go without it!

The trail angels near Ollalie Lake were amazing and had just about everything we hikers need at their checkpoint. I even have a ride to my trailhead in the morning and had a huge dinner tonight. One can't ask for much more than that. 

August 9

Today was a weird day. I was dropped off at my trailhead and was walking by 8:30 am. I met a few more nobo hikers, most of which seemed still in love with the trail. However, they all seemed a little eager to find a quick place to camp for the night. This was something I couldn't understand, but it all eventually became very clear as to why they were all acting in such a way. I had been hiking all day in the valleys and on the north side of Mt. Jefferson with the southern sky completely hidden from my view. As I neared the top of a ridge that furthered my southern view I saw what had the nobos so completely ready to take cover. I wasn't quite to the top of the ridge, so I couldn't see the extent of the storm coming my way. Thinking it might be a little shower from a cloudburst I set my pack against a tree and went to attend to nature's calling. I was in the most vulnerable of positions when the sky opened up with hailstones. I hurried the process as quickly as I could and set up my tarp and dove inside for cover. What came next was the most brilliant thunderstorm I've been in. Lighting hitting trees atop the ridge I was making myself up to, and thunder so loud it vibrated echoes in my body. Being so exhausted from the late night before I fell fast asleep at 5 pm and woke up at 9:30 pm in the dark. To make up my miles I'm going for a 3 am wake up call and try to make if to my resupply at Big Lake Youth Camp. 

August 7

My phone deleted the last few drafts. Today is the 10th and I am writing the 7th-9th as I can remember them. 

I was able to get up early and made 32 miles before calling it a day. With no tent to pack up it's easy to move quickly. I had a couple good conversations with some nobo hikers that were excited to be getting close to finishing up. I also heard that I am only a half day behind some sobo thru-hikers that I haven't met yet. I saw one small black bear right off the trail, but was too slow with the camera to get a good picture. I made it a lake for lunch called Little Crater Lake with 34 degree water that felt wonderful for a foot soak. Before the foot soak I did fill my water bottles with its crystal clear water. It was formed by an artesian spring and is 45 feet deep even though it's only about 50 ft across. 

I made Noodles Flajolets tonight and added some venison for a little extra extra gourmet. Oregon is so flat and easy hiking compared to where I've been it's been really great. 

August 6

It was a tough day for big mileage. There were a lot of northbound hikers to chat with and steep terrain to navigate. I made it by Ramona Falls, another short alternate to the PCT by a huge cascade of water. It was a fun day altogether, and my new bright orange shirt is a huge hit. I look too clean to the other thru-hikers after my double zero, and probably smell too clean at this point too.

I made it to Timberline Lodge at the base of Mt. Hood in the early afternoon, got my resupply package, a shower, and food before getting back on the trail. I have a full belly and a lazy attitude and found a nice spot tucked away in some pine trees on a bed of sand to cowboy camp for the night only about a half mile from the lodge. I can still hear car doors in the parking lot. An 18 mile day is ok with me today as I hear soon the trail will be as flat as a pancake and I only have to  do a couple of 30s or 32s to keep up my 27 mile average. I plan to be hiking early tomorrow especially since I don't have a tent to take down. I spend too much time in my sleeping bag when I have my tent up anyway. 

August 5

So this is what it feels like to hike without foot pain. Aaaaaah...

I guess two zeros and new shoes was exactly what I needed. I am 30 miles from town, I started late, took a lot of breaks and pictures, climbed out of the gorge, and still made 30 miles. I over did it, admittedly, by about 3 miles as the familiar pinch of forming blisters started working their way around my heels. I was 3 miles from water though, so I had to keep going. I don't think they will form actual blisters because I slowed down to a more reasonable pace for the last few miles. 

The day started with me packed up and leaving Shrek's Swamp (the trail angel in Cascade Locks is named Shrek and let me camp in his yard the "swamp") at 7:16 am. I went for a breakfast burrito at the famous drive in and headed out a half hour later after sitting down to enjoy my last taste of civilization for a while. There was a lady setting up her fruit stand and I stopped by knowing I would regret not buying fruit. For $5 and being the first customer and being a polite PCT hiker she gave me two bowls of red cherries 1 bonus bowl of Rainier cherries and 4 peaches. I finally left town and headed for the Eagle Creek Trail. An alternate of the PCT that everyone takes for the scenic value. This trail has some of the most amazing waterfalls and cascades that I have seen hiking so far. There was even one called "Tunnel Falls" because you walk through a tunnel behind the fall itself. I have some great pictures of the area and can't wait to see how they turn out. 

August 4

Another zero to heal and recover. I can't wait to get back on trail and get back to my "home". My new shoes make me feel like in walking in fuzzy slippers. I'm excited at the thought of the challenge of trying to hike 27 miles per day for the next 9 days. If I can do that I'll be ready for 30+ days in southern Oregon. I got a new bright orange shirt to reflect the sun and sent my black shirt home for use later on. I need to get up and get after it in the morning, but there is a place in town that has excellent breakfast burritos and that is one thing that is sure to delay my start. The only concern now is sore knees from the 4,300 ft. descent into the gorge, but a little glucosamine should help with that. I did get my fix on food I crave on the trail today: lunch was American Chinese food, and dinner was McDonald's McChicken, two McDoubles and a Hot Fudge Sunday. I should be able to power out of here tomorrow. 

August 3

My first true "zero" today. I've taken a couple trail zeros in Washington, but they were for gear issues and I had things on my mind the whole time. Today was just a day of not thinking about hiking and relaxing, eating etc. I did make it to the Boring, OR convention grounds for a work day and got in on my favorite job, a little demolition of a small building. I'm staying again at the Nichols' place tonight. We had a delicious barbecue, I soaked in Epsom salts, and once again have a bed to sleep in. I'm so grateful for hospitality, friends, and fellowship. 

I meet with my good friend Dan Anderson tomorrow who will be taking me around the Portland area for a last hang out session before he takes off for Latvia. One thing we will be doing is going to get me a new pair of shoes. I'm so excited at the possibility of walking without foot pain. The store I stopped on today seems to have competent employees that want to help in every way possible. They want to see my old shoes and see what is going on with the wear pattern before I buy new ones. It is good to finally find a place more interested in the satisfaction of their customer than the fatness of their own wallet.

August 2

I didn't leave as early as I wanted to this morning, but had the good fortune of a dry campsite down in low elevation next to good water. My SteriPEN once again lost battery, leaving me with no way to purify water. This was somewhat expected, and not a huge concern as it was still overcast, humid and cool meaning I wouldn't need much more than the full liter of purified water I did have plus the fact that every stream and spring I see is probably more pure than the tap water most people drink on a regular basis. Over the course of the day, I did end up drinking about half a liter of non-purified water which proved, so far, to not be an issue. I am still frustrated that I can't hike more than 200 miles on one set of batteries for the SteriPEN. At this rate I will be spending about $140 just in batteries (CR123 2-pack at $13.99 each). I might as well buy a filter that I only replace once.

I'm also very frustrated at my Oboz shoes. They are going in the garbage tomorrow as I have a chance to buy some new shoes that will allow me to walk without foot pain. I do wonder sometimes what it must feel like to walk without pain... It's been my reality for so long I've forgotten.

There were some huge upsides to the day, however. First, in talking to my dad on the phone I missed the last turn on the PCT and ended up road walking for 4 miles into town. This was great because along the road were hundreds of blackberries and I stuffed my face on those for 4 straight miles after I had been eating as many huckleberries as I could get my hands on at the higher elevations. Just before crossing the Bridge of the Gods into Oregon, a marketeer at a fruit stand selling fresh peaches let me have a couple for free. Then, in crossing the bridge, the toll booth operator let me go through without paying (I was told by the nobos they were charging hikers), and standing at the other side were my new friends Darren and Mona Nichols. I've had a great night consisting of a burger, ice cream, shower, bed etc. I'm taking a double zero here and heading out Monday morning on the trail. 

August 1

I had boundless energy leaving camp this morning in the cold and windy mist. I'm still not sure where it came from, but suspect that a full stomach contributed in some way. I hiked 29 miles to a campsite just 30 miles from the bridge into Oregon, and repeated my meal from the night before to hopefully reach Cascade Locks half a day early. I met a northbounder from New Zealand who said there was southbound hiker a half a day ahead of me also from New Zealand. Two days ago I was a day behind said southbounder so I might catch him tonight. Louis is camped about 5 or 6 miles behind me, he didn't get the early start or crazy energy this morning. A nobo hiker named Aaron is camped at my site too and we chatted a bit. I'm excited for my time at the locks, and can't wait to get there. 

July 31

After a day of failed attempts at obtaining food yesterday a little trail magic changed our fortunes today. As we were packing up camp a nobo thru-hiker named "double shot" stopped by our campsite and informed us of a little trail magic a mile ahead. A PCT hiker box set up by the Trout Lake Abbey, a Buddhist community, was placed near Road 23. In it Louis and I found delicious apples, Starbucks drinks, toiletries, and various snacks. This was so welcome because we were just talking at breakfast how we each only had 2 snacks per day plus breakfast dinner and a small lunch. I also found myself some rope to replace the one I lost in trail a couple weeks ago. It gets better too.  We ran into a lady hiking with her dog 5 miles later that was getting off trail at road 23 and wanted us to have her extra food. She gave me a huge bag of potatoes, granola and delicious spicy kimchi and rice mix. Louis got a huge bag of trail mix and a big bag of rice and black beans. This was all homemade dehydrated food too. All fresh ingredients, she even said she hand picked the mushrooms in my rice and kimchi mix the year before from northern Washington. Needless to say, Louis and I ate like kings today and especially tonight. I am so incredibly stuffed and haven't even touched my food tonight.

Only one thing to possibly put a damper on such a good day was hearing that this area is under severe thunderstorm warning. Currently it is windy and cloudy, and I have a feeling something might be blowing in tonight. 

July 30

We were both exhausted after our day and agreed to sleep in. We left camp at 10:00 am and we were feeling good. There were section hikers again. Three groups were doing all of Washington and two had hiked from Crater Lake. There were also a few day hikers as we past a trailhead that was only 3 miles away. Try as we might, neither if us could yogi any food from anyone on the trail. I had reception at lunch time for a few minutes and coordinated some logistics for my zero in Cascade Locks. I've already been invited for Saturday night and Sunday morning, and I cannot wait to get there.

I'm feeling a little sick tonight, but at this point it's nothing serious. Hopefully some rest cures what Emergen-C doesn't. I did have my favorite meal tonight, and have decided to call it "Noodles Flajolets" (pronounced flej o lays). I decided it needed a fancy French name because it is so gourmet, so I asked Louis how to say "beans" in French. With a name like that it could be a meal I cook for a date sometime. 

July 29

With every up comes a down. Today certainly had some of the downward trend to it. It started out cold and in a stiff easterly breeze blowing through our exposed campsite. I had a wonderful view of the stars all night with no tent, but no break from the wind that started around 5:00 am. Louis and I shivered over our oatmeal and I packed up early and headed for a patch of sunlight in the valley below. There I warmed up in the sunlight, and Louis caught up not long after. We met a few section hikers down the trail and everything went smoothly until about 3 miles from our lunch site. I had a huge blister coming in on the pad of my right foot. I took off my socks and popped the blister and walked for the next mile in searing pain. After that mile, and with a little help from vitamin I (ibuprofen), I pushed on for the lunch spot. When I arrived it was so polluted with mosquitoes that Louis decided it was best to set up his 1-man tent (mine is just a tarp), and eat inside of that. It was cozy but we managed and were completely bug free for a few minutes. After lunch, we met Charlie on the trail. Charlie is a nobo thru-hiker, and more of a true representation of a PCT hiker than Wind Warrior was. WW seems sick of the trail and ready to be done. Charlie was lonely, I think we chatted for close to an hour, but very happy to be on trail and with one of the smallest packs I've ever seen for such a hike. I think it was about 38 liters... That's not much more than a backpack you see on an 8th grader getting on the bus for school. 

We are camped 26 miles at a neat spring with the freshest, cleanest water on the whole trail. Louis's leg is much worse and my feet are killing me right now. One of us may take a zero in Trout Lake, we will see how we feel tomorrow. One last thing worth noting was finding a patch if wild strawberries and grazing for a few minutes on those just before we reached this spring. Sooooo good.

July 28

The Goat Rocks have proven themselves to be worthy of all the hype. Absolutely stunning scenery in all directions. Poptart and I have our hiker legs too which is great! We hiked 10 miles before 11:00 and had a huge snack session before our 3400 ft. climb into the Goat Rocks. We met Big Dave as he was finishing up some section hiking, and he told us how windy it was on top so we decided to do lunch just before the ridge and save the last 1000 ft. for after lunch. 

We left our lunch spot after an hour of eating/napping in the sun and at 3:00 started the climb. It took me two hours to get up because I kept stopping to take pictures and videos and more pictures and more footage. My camera battery is going to have a hard time making it through this section. The scenery is second to none on this trip. When I finally made it to the top I took a sweeping video of the panorama and soon after, a huge cloud moved in and totally engulfed me. It was so surreal and unlike anything I've experienced before. To be completely enclosed like that at the top of a peak watching a cloud roll over below, above and around you is just incredible. When Louis arrived, we sat for another hour on top of the pass taking pictures of each other and together and of the panorama.

We came down from the peak and are camped at a site about 18 miles from yesterday's site. There are absolutely no mosquitoes it is a cloudless night and, for the first time, I am cowboy camping it in the wilderness with a blanket of stars above me. Just an unbelievable day. The only downer of the day us that Louis may have shin splints and we might have to split up for a bit so he can rest. We'll know more tomorrow, and we had some great trail magic tonight with our camp neighbors bringing us rice, bean and cheese burritos. As soon as they heard we were thru-hikers they brought even more and there was enough for both of us to have 3 burritos each. What a great day today was...